BlaringSmelly

Not to be confused with the Léon in France, Castilla y Léon was once Kingdom of Léon and now a quiet college town about 3-hour train ride from Madrid. After a week in the metropolitans, Léon was perfect for sensory overloaded traveler to rewind. And for once not to worry about getting robbed!

Taxi fare from train station to hotel was 4.5 euros. That really surprised me. Taxi rides I’ve taken in Barcelona and Madrid, the starting rate alone were more than that. Hotel rate was half what I paid in Barcelona; room and services were better in leaps and jumps.

Day 1

Dinner at a small deli near the cathedral, we had simple regional dishes – anchovies on a bed of pickled red peppers, blood pudding, lamb chop, thick slices of potato chips. And washed it down with a glass of refreshing cider. Cider I’m used to tend to be sweet, almost like juice. The cider here has a subtle fruity flavor, very smooth.

Day 2
This city wakes up at its own pace. At 9am, we were out about looking for coffee. Most stores were still not open for business.

Today’s agenda: visiting architectures of historical importance. Alone the way, we’ll do some cloth shopping. Léon is small, so small we walked around the town twice in 1 day.

Like the other architectural landmarks in Léon, Hostal De San Marcos is considered an important heritage for the building’s rich history as well as architecture styles. Now a state-own Parador, you can live in this medieval castle for $200/night. Or dine in the hotel restaurant for 20 euros like we did.

Actually hotel restaurant is only for hotel guests; hotel’s café bar area is open to none hotel guests. We followed a group of Japanese tourists into the restaurant. The restaurant manager let us come in for lunch even after we explained that we were not with the group.

Day 3
We took the 7am train back to Madrid. The best part traveling by train is the chance to see the countryside and be in an environment that tourists are the minority.

Indeed we got that exposure alright, actually a little too close. Halfway through the ride, a very strong scent of body odor woke us up from our state of relaxation. The train was quite empty. The only new traveler was a woman seating across the alley, whom joined us few stops ago. She was reading a magazine, she looked very tidy and clean. Could it be her?

The scent was overpowering. We couldn’t finish a conversation without being interrupted by the smell. It got worse when the train was making turns. I brought up the episode in Seinfeld when the scent of one valet parking guy marked his car. Betty got worried a little if we’d walk out of the train and still smell the scent. Oh boy, I need my Marc Jacobs perfume now!

I wish I had known more about Madrid before I went. If Barcelona were a stylish, self-conscious dude in his Armani suite, Madrid would be the sexy intellectual chick played by Sarah Jessica Parker from “Sexy in the City”. Both cities are charming and brilliant at its own ways.

Day 1
Something about the Mediterranean climate in Spain, the sky’s blue color seems more intense, and the sun shines a bit brighter.

It was a perfect Sunday afternoon to visit the city’s beloved Parque De Retiro. Every single person in this park was enjoying the moment. I found myself strolling around the park and smiling for no reason. I had a late lunch at the park’s outdoor café. It was one of those rare moments in life that consciously I know I’m happy. And all it took was the simplest things in life.

Madrid’s famous art walk referrers to the 3 art museum on Paseo del Prado - Museo del Pardo, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, and Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. All of them are in walking distance from each other. However, in order for art lovers to digest and fully enjoy the collections from each museum, it is best to visit the museums in different days.

I didn’t think much of it when Betty was ranting about Museo del Prado’s vast collections of paintings, sculptures, and treasures (She was in Madrid before Barcelona). But man, wasn’t she ever so right about that. Took me 4 hours to barely browsed through the museum collection and then I was asked to leave because it’s closing time. I lost count of exhibited paintings that I’ve studied in school. Being in front of these original artworks that have shaped the western art history, I have no doubt that experience there had impacted me in some ways.

After 8pm and it was till bright outside. I decided to walk through Parque de Retiro in returning journey. Near Monumento to Alfonso XII, there were loud drumming and big crowd of people following the heavy drumbeats and dancing like an outdoor rave party. The energy level was boiling hot. I felt stood out being the only person not completely engaged in the trance.

Day 2
Also highly recommended by Betty was a tour to Royal Palace of Madrid (Palacio Real) and the Royal Armoury (La Real Armeria) collection. 25 palace rooms are open to the public. Each room carried a unique theme and no expense spared in furnishing and decoration. The wealth of Spanish royal family was evidential.

Before joining Big Fish Games, my co-worker Andres lived in Madrid his whole life. Andres was a huge help when I was planning this trip. He mentioned when I go to Plaza Mayor, I should try the squid sandwich (Bocadillo de calamares). So that’s where I went next.

Getting myself lost is one of those hidden talents I discovered during this trip. I tend to wonder and don’t pay close attention to map direction. Going to Plaza Mayor from the palace should be a pretty straightforward 10 minutes walk. Out of nowhere an interesting looking back alley lured me taking a detour, then another one… Before I realized I’ve wondered too far, I ended up at La Latina, half mile south of my destination.

As soon as I found Plaza Mayor, I went straight to the tourist center asking for direction to the restaurant serving squid sandwich. What Andres forgot to tell me, was that Plaza Mayor was surrounded by many back alley size streets. The street’s names all started with “Calle de…”. And you can’t find them on the local map. I was told by the tourist center person an approximate area to look for the street. But even her can’t pinpoint the exact location. I couldn’t find the street and eventually gave up. I got to get to Atocha station on the other side of the city to buy train ticket to Leon.

Purchase advance train ticket was painful. When you can’t speak fluent Spanish and don’t have the luxury of time, get your ticket before your trip. The train ticket purchase website is in Spanish. Have a travel agent book it or find yourself a Spanish co-worker/friend to do it for you.

Took care of the ticket ordeal, I spent few hours at Reina Sofia.

Day 3
Train to Leon departure time was 2:40pm. I had more than half day still to explore Madrid. I headed to the park again to kill sometimes before another journey to museum. The same park that’s filled with sounds and actions, this morning it was the complete opposite.

Of the museums I’ve visited, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza has the most visitor-friendly layout and facility. Museum collections are clearly labeled and categorized with corresponding time periods. There were plenty of washrooms, resting lounges, and even a mailbox provided to guests.

Getting to Chamartin train station was another adventure of its own. To take a metro to the station, I’d get off at Chamartin and then walk to the building next to it. It got complicated when the metro’s final station after that is Pinar de Chamartin. I asked several people for directions and got different answers . At the end, I barely made it for the train. There was enough time to grab lunch. Just so it happened that the train station deli I went to was serving squid sandwich. I was able to taste Bocadillo de calamares after all. Jackpot!

It was a spontaneous decision. When my sister mentioned her business trip to Spain in mid-April, I ‘volunteered’ myself to join her. Unlike me, she had a business agenda. The scheduled worked out that half the time I’d be traveling alone, but we also would have the chance to travel in pairs.

First stop, Barcelona. I planed 3.5 days here because for years I’ve wanted so badly to visit Barcelona.

Day 1
A 30-minute bus ride from hotel, I arrived at Barri Gotic, one of the major traffic and tourist hubs in the city. To get to the historical sites, I had to fight my way through the overwhelming amount of stores, crowds, and traffic at Placa de Catalunya. It was worth it when I stumbled into the wide-open space in front of catedral and Roman remains. And that’s when things started to get interesting.

Among many museum and historical sites packed in the narrow stone paved streets was Museu Picasso. The museum exhibited Picasso’s complete creative stages and media. I was overjoyed to be surrounded by master’s works. Little did I know this trip would be filled with moments like this. ☺

On the way back, I spotted a local market selling sweets, fresh produce, meat and seafood. All the stands were competing for your attention with colorful and neatly displayed goods.

When returning to hotel, I missed my bus stop and rode all the way to the last stop.

Day 2
Montjuic is relatively new development in Barcelona. Where the city hosted the 1992 Olympic games. It is also home to Museu national de Catalunya, Fundacio Joan Miro, and the Peblo. Buses and tour coaches roaming nonstop from one tourist attraction to the next. But if you are hardy as me, I recommend exploring Montjuic on foot.

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya has everything from medieval to early Modern arts. And to my surprise visitors are allow to take photos of museum artifacts. It’s too good to be true, almost like a guilty pleasure.

I almost didn’t go to Poble Espanyol because it sounded rather touristy according to the tour guide. But I’m so glade I did. Let’s face it, I AM a tourist. Beside, I get to see regional Spanish architecture styles in one place, all in picture-perfect setting.

After visiting Fundacio Joan Miro, I continued walking toward the east edge of Montjuic.

On the way, I past a somewhat secluded entrance of a high-end hotel. Some 20 plus shinning motorcycles quietly parked in front of it. There was no guards or securities to stop me, so I curiously wondered in. These were brand new Ducati Monsters, all with keys in the startup. I stood right next to a red one, the seat height was perfect for me. I was so close from getting on and start the engine. Later I found a guy with Ducati shirt. I learned from him that Ducati debuted Monster 696 and kicked off its European tour in this hotel (Hotel Miramar) just few days ago. It was such a treat!

Day 3
Betty showed up last evening. Per her request, today’s theme is Gaudi architectures. We took pilgrimage to Gaudi’s sites around the city.

Indeed we were all over the place – Sagrada Familia, La Pedrera, Casa Batllo, Parc Guell, and Palau Guell. For me, Gaudi’s architecture was not love at the first sight. The exterior, especially Sagrada Familia and Parc Guell, feel rough and unfinished. It is not to question Gaudi’s achievement. In fact, his mastermind and genius came from his ability to draw inspiration from natural elements and translated them into manmade structures. Of all the Gaudi sites we visited, Casa Batllo is my favorite and most admirable, both interior and exterior.

At the end of day, we were exhausted and ended up somewhere in the Montjuic ara. Both Betty’s and my guidebook recommended a nearby restaurant Elche. We had a wonderful Catalonia dinner – Iberico cured ham croquetas, seafood stew, and cuttlefish artichoke paella. The cuttlefish-inked rice tasted so good I ate so much Betty got a little concerned.