Posts Tagged ‘europe’

We started from Florence, headed east to Castelina, explored San Gimignano, Monteriggioni, southward to Sienna, then to San Quirico d’Orcia, Pienza, Montepulciano… On the way, we stop at small town or village for breaks. They all have their unique charm, but unmistakably Tuscany.

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Ville di Corsano

Bar stop @ Poggibonsi, Tuscany

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Florence
I took enough Art History classes in my college days to become a huge fan of Florence. One of the highlights of this trip was the moment I lay my eyes on Florence Cathedral (Duomo). The cheer grande scale, intricate facade patterns, the amount of details going into making this monumental building. I was silence for lack of words, and truly humbled been present of something so great. A testimonial of the brilliance of the past.

We only had a day to explore and it was just not enough time.

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110522 East doors of the Baptistry

Castellina in Chianti
Popular stops for motorcycle travelers. Later I found out the Tuscany region in general is popular among motorcyclists, cyclists, and well, just about anybody.

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San Gimignano
Like all the towns we visited, we had to climb a hill to get to. San Gimignano was buzzing with tourists. The stone paved streets spreading out from the town center were packed with people. We did find peace and quiet near the wall, away from town center.

This is the home of the famous World Champion Ice Cream. I had some, and thought was just okay. Ktula found his beloved salami sold in a meat store. He inhaled the salty meat in minutes.

San Gimignano

110524 Salami time!

110524 San Gimignano street

Sienna
I’m not sure how to articulate my impression of Sienna. Sienna’s past of prosperity turned hardship when plaque hit the city and kill 1/3 of population kept hanging on to me. The Siena we visited was ancient, but so alive with people, noises, boutique stores, and countless restaurants.

A noticeable portion of men in Siena seemed to have good fashion sense. Whether they were in suit or casual attire, they look good!

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110526 Duomo interior

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110526 Battistero di San Giovanni

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San Quirico d’Orcia
An interesting mix of tourism and residential area. According to our guide Ben, people live in San Quirico d’Orcia work and commute to nearby big cities. That explained a lots of well maintenanced, up-scale communities just outside the ancient wall of San Quirico d’Orcia. We got to enjoy the history of this ancient town, and also the convenience of modern grocery store serving the residents.

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110527 dinner @ Trattoria Ossena

Pienza
What a charming little place – stunning view of neighboring fields, delightful wooden door surrounded by potted plants, balcony embraced by vines and flowers, beautifully decayed wall, friendly face peeking out of a window… How can you not love a place when every corner there were surprises await.

110528 Pienza building

110528 Pienza building

110528 window

110528 Montepulciano landscape

Bagno Vignoni
Not far from San Quirico d’Orcia was this small hot spring town. The thermal waters was used for healing and relaxation since the Roman period. The pool is now surrounded by snack bars, restaurants, hotels and gift shop.

110528 Bagno Vignoni hot spring

110528 Bagno Vignoni kittie

Poppy Fields and more
As hard as we tried to capture Tuscany countryside with our camera, photos don’t come close to witnessing the beauty in person. In many cases, there was no one else but us and the breathtaking scenic. It’s a very personal moment with nature. Something of a luxury for city folks such as yours truly.

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110528 pretty field

Along Strada Provinciale di Chianciano>

110527 Scenic gravel path

110528 Wild poppy field

Meandering road into Monticchiello

Pisa
I didn’t like Pisa. Largely have to do with the fact we came close to become the victims of 2 pick pocket attempts. First incident happened to me. We were getting off a crowded bus at train station. I sensed a girl stood very close behind me. Subconsciously I looked down and saw a hand reaching into my handbag. My handbag was unzipped at the time. I couldn’t tell if it was unzipped to start with. Nothing seemed to be missing in my bag. Then minutes later, a woman with a child tried on ktula’s backpack. She was following us so closely, she stepped on ktula’s sandals at one of the traffic stops. When ktula sensed something fishy was going on, he turned his backback to the front and noticed the zipper was already half open. Once again we got lucky. Nothing seemed to be missing from his bag. But this experience left a bad taste throughout the time we spent in Pisa.

I’m sure Pisa is charming in its own way. But walking amongst Duomo, between crowded visitors and souvenir vendors, I couldn’t help but miss the quiet towns we so often stop by during our cycling route.

110529 Piazza del Duomo

110529 Piazza del Duomo

110529 Baptistery

I knew I wanted to one day visit Tuscany but I didn’t know it was going to be on a bike. And I would sweat so much and came home with a injured knee, and yet loving it and wanting more. On the flight departing from Pisa, I looked down and find even the last glimpse of the land, it was pretty beyond words.

110529 departing Tuscany

Food has always been a crucial part of our travels. This time was no exception, and we had some pretty great feasts. At Rome International Airport, I had one of the best airport food – salads with mozzarella cheese, cherry tomatoes, and anchovies. It was a very good sign when you can enjoy food served in the airport.

11051 Best airport food ever

During the tour, lunch and dinner consisted of pasta, bread, and Chianti. Pasta in tomato sauce, in squid ink, in saffron, with local porcini mushroom, with wild boar, with rabbit… We tried them all. The pasta usually cooked just right – not too soft, just enough to give each bite great textures. Over time I nailed down my favorite pasta dish. After a long day cycling hills, roasting under sun, nothing beat a plate of fresh pasta in tomato sauce.

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110525 dinner @ Papei

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110524 dinner @ Tre Porte

110524 dinner @ Tre Porte

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110528 lunch

Dinner at Papei

Some outstanding meat and seafood during this trip – calamari, salami, tripe stew… I fell in love with seafood salad. Whether it’s soaked in olive oil or in light vinaigrette, they were always tender and delicious.

At Chianti county, certainly Chianti were always on the dinning table. Chianti from different region have distinct flavors. I am not knowledgable enough to review the different kind of Chianti we had. I did like them.

110522 calamari

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110524 dinner @ Tre Porte

110525 dinner @ Papei

A plate of Tuscan salami and prosciutto

At Castello de Brolio, ours guides Pier and Emanuele prepared a feast of local cheese, meats, tomatoes, assorted olives & pickled vegis, bread, fresh fruits, juices, and cookies. We picnic under a shaded spot between two vineyards. I still recall the bird chirping and warm breezes at the picnic. We stayed for as long as we can. What a peaceful and tranquil moment that was.

110525 cheese, peppers, assorted olives

110525 picnic lunch

110525 picnic lunch

Then there was the croissants at Hotel Colombaio in Castellina. Every morning, the kitchen staff at the hotel baked these jam-filled croissants. As we walk by the kitchen, we smelled the wonderful fresh pastry in the air. Minutes later, biting into these warm, buttery and crisp on the skin goodness. Man, I miss these croissants!

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Breakfast at Hotel Colombaio

8 out of the 5 days we were traveling on bicycles. The routes were well designed, for most part it was away from busy traffic, and the views were spectacular.

The daily distance we traveled averaged around 35 miles. It’s not a lot since ktula and I were doing 40 miles weekend rides anyway. What we weren’t prepared for was the Tuscany hills. Friends who did the Tuscany ride before warned us about it. But we were in denial. I was thinking “nah we’ll be fine. Our routes will be flat.” How wrong and naive was I. It was constant ups and downs throughout the tour.

When there’s up, there’s also down. Imaging cycling full speed on winding path, one side shaded by thick bushy trees, the other side outlook stunning Tuscany landscape expanded to the horizon. Also imaging you were going so fast, the wind blow hard on face, so much so you can’t hear yourself yodeling. We rode so hard on the uphills, made the downhills that much better. There was nothing come close to this exhilarating experience.

110524 good morning!

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110525 break at Gaiole

110527 Da Mario

Bibbiano

Cooling down

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There were 11 of us in the tour. ktula and I were among the youngest, but certainly not the fastest. Bill, a 62-year-old retired history teacher almost always lead the group, leaving rest of us in his dust. Chris from UK haven’t been on a bike for years since this tour. He was struggling the frist day. Overtime he discovered the cyclist in him, and became one of the faster riders. That’s some extraordinary transformation.

At San Gimignano, Chris had a flat tire and I had a bicycle injury. Richard destroyed 3 chains between the 5 riding days. Bill made friends with locals through his photography. While we were frowning about the gravel roads, David cheerfully zipping pass us… As we learned more about our travel companion, we grew closer and form a special bond.

110527 arriving San Quirico d'Orcia

110524 repaire crew

110524 ouchy

110524 Coffee break

110523 new friend in a jiff

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We cycled a total of 284 kilometers (153 miles) within 5 days. Both ktula and I brought GPS devices but both of our datas were incomplete. ktula combined datas from both devices to come up with these daily routes information.

Day 1: Florence to Castellina in Chianti (31.14M)
Florence to Castellina in Chianti

Day 2 (Part I): Castellina in Chianti to San Gimignano (18.98M)
Castellina in Chianti to San Gimignano

Day 2 (Part II): San Gimignano to Castellina in Chianti (24M)
San Gimignano to Castellina in Chianti

Day 3: Castellina in Chianti to Siena (32.51M)
Castellina in Chianti to Siena

Day 5: Siena to San Quirico d’Orcia (40.45M)
Siena to San Quirico d'Orcia

Day 6: San Quirico circuit (34.23M)
San Quirico circuit

This May, we spent 8 days cycling and touring Tuscany. The experience was truly one of a kind. I can’t think of a better way than traveling on bikes. We were able to cover good distances to get a feel of different towns and villages, and yet slow enough to absorb the beauty Tuscany has so much to offer.

The trip is breaking into cycling, food, and places in separate entries. I’m not good with words. Coming up with 8 travel stories would take me a very long time. ;D

110522 from Rome to Pisa

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On the banks of the Arno

110524 Poggibonsi town center

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110524 arriving San Gimignano

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110526 outside Duomo

110524 pasta & meat store

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110527 Piazza Campo

110524 Poggibonsi

Map of Amsterdam

At the hotel room in Amsterdam, Rob Schneider’s Deuce Bigalow: Europen Gigolo was playing on TV. The scene, one of the characters was in Amsterdam, talking to Rob Schneider character into joining him here:

“…Amsterdam’s like college kids’ Disneyland!” He said. And I concur.

red light district

Day 1
The day started at 7am train ride from Leon to Madrid; flight from Madrid to Gatwick, London; transferred flight to Amsterdam. Met up with Betty at Amsterdam airport (we traveled separately at the Madrid to Amsterdam portion). Took the train from airport to central station; taxi from there to our hotel. By the time we reached the hotel, we’ve traveled 12 hours in 4 kinds of transportation. Later we took a trolley headed to Dam and Red Light District. Yep, we traveled in 5 kinds of transportation in one day.

Dam was crowded with traffic, people, and stores. I noticed more tourists looking groups here. It can’t be easy to keep the group together in this dense and fast moving street.

Amsterdam’s pastry shop is a celebration of everything delicious. Sandwich, pizza, waffle, chocolates, cakes…, from savory to sweet, they don’t just look good, they taste good too.

Nearby Kalverstraat is a big shopping strip. With trendy shoppers, flashy store displays, techno music blasting, Kalverstraat felt like a block party than just a shopping strip on a Friday evening.

Day 2
Hotel Zandbergen room

Hotel Zandbergen itself is worth the mentioning. The hotel is family operated. Like the hotel website introduction, it’s your home from home. Our room was spacious and had a separate kitchen and bathroom. Personal touch was everywhere – stacks of current magazines from beauty, lifestyles, travel, to local tourist information, comfortable furniture, bus pass and museum tickets can be purchased at the front desk, … and yah, breakfast was included.

Keukenhof

After a very satisfying breakfast, hotel owner attentively help us to plan today’s schedule. First stop was Keukenhof Garden in Lisse. I wonder how it compares to the Tulip Festival at Skagit Valley back in Washington. There were lots of tulips alright. What I found it odd was the indoor orchid exhibition. Orchid is not local plant and definitely wont’ adapt to the cold weather here. So to see a greenhouse full of orchid in Amsterdam was a bit out of context for me. Half of the orchid in display was cut flower arrangement anyway.

taken year 2998taken year 1984

When we were just wee girls 20 some years ago, we had a family trip to Amsterdam, London, and Paris. Amsterdam was particularly vivid in my memory probably because we had more fun here – windmills which I associated with fairy tales, colorful and open spaces for us to run around, and wooden shoe so big dad had mom, sis, and I took a picture standing inside. This time around, when I saw the giant wooden shoe again, Betty and I had to take a picture with it.

Dutch Pancakes

Late lunch at the Pancake Bakery, the pancake house is in an old warehouse building few blocks north of Westerkerk. The variety of pancakes on the menu was overwhelming. We decided to try a salty one and a sweet one. The pancakes looked big but they were light in the mouth.

Afterward, a bit aimless wondering in the shopping districts.

Rijksmuseum

Perhaps it’s because the museum is currently under construction and part of the exhibitions aren’t available at the time. Or perhaps I was spoiled by museum experiences in Spain. Either way I was rather disappointed at Amsterdam’s renowned Rijksmuseum.


Van Gogh Museum
on the other hand was definitely worth the visit. Not just because we got to see Van Gogh’s lifetime works, the temporary exhibition of John Everett Millais was equally enjoyable. And because it’s Friday museum night, the museum opened until 10PM. There were live DJ spinning at the lobby, wines and appetizers, performances, light shows and interactive display on the ceiling.

Day 3
Hotel staff told us a Saturday market at Albert Cuypmarket. We arrived 8:30am, part of the market weren’t ready yet. We ended up walking around and checking out grocery stores. There was one discount store everything was way cheaper than anywhere we’ve being to. This must be where the locals come to buy their daily groceries. Betty was torn between whether she should buy a big piece of bree to take home for only .99 euro or leave the store empty handed.

market vendor

Market sells meat, seafood, fresh produces, flowers, and pickles, pretty standard. Walking back to the hotel, we pass a street lined up with Mediterranean restaurants. Colorful vegetable dishes and dessert displayed at restaurants’ window. Food choices are as diverse as the people here. Sadly, we didn’t get to try much of it during this short stay.